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South America

playa grande
Colombia South America

Taganga and Tayrona: Colombia’s Caribbean

Taganga is some four and a half hours drive from Cartagena but it feels like a world away. The drive there reveals tiny little shantytowns by the seaside. They represented fishing villages, only their waterways are so clogged with rubbish that the…

Colombia South America

Swept away in Cartagena

It’s a tropically warm day and the strong sun beats down and turns the sand to coals but it is still unable to eliminate the moisture from the air. The humidity explains why the flowers and deep green leaves,…

Colombia South America

Medellín and the Pablo Escobar tour

Medellín’s story is linked inextricably with Colombia’s past few decades and has played a huge role towards the country’s reputation and international stigma. Medellín is Colombia’s second largest city, snaking its way through the Aburra Valley in the northern Andes. Its…

Colombia South America

Popayán and me: A story of food

Popayán is a dangerous city. But it’s not dangerous in the way you normally associate Colombian cities with danger. It is a UNESCO City of Gastronomy, and this means a hell of a lot of requisite food tasting. Every…

otavalo scarves
Ecuador South America

The two best towns in Ecuador

Ecuador. A tiny blip on the South America continent, yet it holds more than the blob on the map suggests. My two favourite towns in Ecuador were opposites, but are equally worth the visit. Baños Baños de Agua Santa…

laguna 69
Peru South America

Laguna 69, Huaraz

Huaraz is a bustling city sandwiched between two thick cordillera slices, making it the perfect starting-point to climb one of the many 6,000-plus metre peaks in the vicinity. Unfortunately, or perhaps luckily for me, I was barely trained for…

huaca de la luna
Peru South America

4 popular Peru coast destinations

Peru’s coast has a varied environment and even more contrasting coastal towns. If you’re heading south to north up the South American continent, it’s likely you’re going to pass through this region at some point. So here are some…

Peru South America

The desert oasis in South America?

Huacachina is completely different from anything you’d imagine to find in South America. With a population of only 115, Huacachina is a natural oasis located only a few kilometres from the larger town Ica. And it really is a certifiable…

colca canyon
Peru South America

How to conquer Colca Canyon

The only sound is the shuffling of feet on gravel and the occasional dry-retching of a fellow hiker ahead of or behind me. It had already been an hour of climbing, but it felt interminable. The sun was only…

Peru South America

Four reasons you’ll fall in love with Cuzco

Everywhere there is historical significance. You can almost hear the clip-clop of conquistadorial horse hooves on the cobblestones of narrow alleyways. You can run your hands along smooth, expertly-chiselled stone walls, built hundreds of years ago, and imagine the Incan craftsmen…

view of machu picchu
Peru South America

The incredible wonders of Machu Picchu

It was still dark outside when I found myself trudging heavily through the darkened streets of Aguas Calientes and along the road to Machu Picchu. It was only 4.30 a.m., but I was determined to reach the site before…

floating island of uros
Peru South America

The floating islands of Lake Titicaca

Lake Titicaca sits like a huge ink stain across the altiplano between Bolivia and Peru. Foreign tourists flock there to visit the Isla del Sol, the mythical birthplace of the sun and the Incan civilisation. A much more kitsch tourist experience,…

isla del sol
Bolivia South America

Lake Titicaca: Isla del Sol

When I arrived at Isla del Sol, I wasn’t quite prepared for the 206 steps up an ancient Incan staircase – scaling 200 metres in all – to reach the island’s southern village, Yumani. With a heavy backpack, 200+…