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Chefchaouen: Where it’s impossible to feel blue

Approaching Chefchaouen from a distance, I could feel my muscles relax and my lungs breathe deep. There it stood, a blue-and-white blob slumped lazily on the slopes of a steep, sparse mountain. The hamlet was surrounded by the dusty,…

famous tannery in fez

Navigating Fez’s mazelike medina

“Hello madam,” the young boy said, approaching with a large grin on his face that also lit up his almond-shaped eyes. “Hello,” I said warily and braced myself for his attempt to wrangle some money from me. “What hostel…