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elephant at elephant valley project
Asia Cambodia

Where elephants go to retire in Cambodia

Bob’s head appeared to crumple inwards at the temples. His concave appearance made him look exceptionally skeletal. He guzzled his food, yet a thin, sagging ribcage betrayed a body tortured and fatigued from a long working life in logging.…

Asia Cambodia

The ghosts of Bokor Hill Station

In a gutted royal villa of mildewed walls, a wild gust welcomes cold spray into the shelter through long-glassless windows. Our guide, Dara, is ill-prepared for the weather in rain-soaked shirt and shorts. He shivers, hunched over, his hands…

girl at angkor wat
Asia Cambodia

What’s so great about Angkor Wat?

It was five in the morning, but the streets showed plenty of activity. Like a school of fish, all traffic – mostly tuk-tuks and bicycles – were headed in one direction. We were all driven by the same urge…

chong kneas village
Asia Cambodia

How I got scammed in Chong Kneas

At the dock of a floating souvenir store in the middle of  Tonlé Sap lake, a fragile woman paddled to our boat. Her child – or her grandchild, it was impossible to tell – clung to the side of the…